Northwest Fishing Reports

Hi Guys

Not sure if I'm posting in the right place. The issue I'm experiencing is while fishing for kokanee trolling at lower speeds (1 - 1.4)

My downrigger weights mess up sort of my view on the sonar.

The weight take too much of the screen preview and the sonar can't see the fish so well between them and right under them.

I think I'm using 6 pounds weight finishing anywhere between 20 - 60 feet.

Adjusting the sensitivity does not help.

Thanks

The problem is you have a huge sonar target ( 6 lb lead ball) smack dab in the middle of the transducer beam. If you can get them farther apart it might help.

You could try moveing the downrigger to the opposite side of the boat from the transducer and maybe using a longer downrigger boom.

You could also try a smaller weight - it will lag behind the boat more and might get the ball out of the sonar beam.

...

Larry3215 wrote:The problem is you have a huge sonar target ( 6 lb lead ball) smack dab in the middle of the transducer beam. If you can get them farther apart it might help.

You could try moveing the downrigger to the opposite side of the boat from the transducer and maybe using a longer downrigger boom.

You could also try a smaller weight - it will lag behind the boat more and might get the ball out of the sonar beam.

will try to see if I can buy some longer booms for my penn

have 2 downrigger so can't move it on the other side.

considering a stick weight too, saw kokanekid selling those.

anyone else has experience with those?

thanks

I starting using stick weights for this very reason. They also have less blow back, track better, dont hang up as easy, and plus they look cool!

Steelheadin360 wrote:I starting using stick weights for this very reason. They also have less blow back, track better, dont hang up as easy, and plus they look cool!

Thanks for the reply

Do you know where I could get that locally? I live in Bothell, work all East Side and Seattle.

Thanks

If you are a DIY guy you can make them yourself. Get some large diameter copper pipe - I think most of the ones Ive seen are 2" diameter - and melt lead and poor it in. Set a stainless eye bolt in one end before the lead cools to attach the cable.

The trick these days is finding the lead at reasonable prices.

Larry3215 wrote:If you are a DIY guy you can make them yourself. Get some large diameter copper pipe - I think most of the ones Ive seen are 2" diameter - and melt lead and poor it in. Set a stainless eye bolt in one end before the lead cools to attach the cable.

The trick these days is finding the lead at reasonable prices.

I would really be interested to tackle this project, but probably at this point will be too much time consuming.

Plan A will stay to see if I can buy some, else will consider plan be.

I'm wondering if 2" is not too much for cutting the water, maybe less than that.

Also I guess it's important to have that stainless eye bolt sit very straight in there.

Also the once I've seen online have an eye bolt on the side. Wondering how can you pour the hot lead and get both eye bolts in place.

Anyone interested to tackle this project?

thanks

Keep in mind that allowing different metals, in close proximity to one another, to make contact with water will generate an electrical charge. The best stick weights are made out of stainless steel and fully encase any lead used to increase their weight. Have a look at this thread to get an idea on what they look like. http://www.kokaneefishingforum.com/fish ... s-a-little

G-Man wrote:Keep in mind that allowing different metals, in close proximity to one another, to make contact with water will generate an electrical charge. The best stick weights are made out of stainless steel and fully encase any lead used to increase their weight. Have a look at this thread to get an idea on what they look like. http://www.kokaneefishingforum.com/fish ... s-a-little

great stuff.

no one else interested in getting those?

thanks

Oops - sorry - I was thinking about pipe jigs when I wrote that. The main eye bolt goes in the side! I like one on the end to attach a release too as well.

Those stainless versions are beyond my DIY skills but pretty darn nice!

I've never worried about the galvanic action - 90% of all downrigger balls already have lead and stainless steal together - but you can always paint the weight if thats a concern.

I actually do make and sell these. I'm in Snohomish. Price depends on weight. But a 9 pound weight uses 13" of 1 1/2" scd40 stainless. High quality run on top and a ring about 4" down to attach your release

Pics? Prices? Website?