Northwest Fishing Reports

After reading through Marc's article regarding dubbing, I have a question...well...regarding dubbing.

My question is in reference to the use of natural fur versus synthetic dubbing. I haven't used dubbing much (only a couple times), just yet...but I wonder what is your opinions regarding the two. I have yet taken the opportunity to grind any materials for my own use, I have only used synthetic pre-packaged dubbing in those handy dispensers.

It seems to me the synthetic dubbing would provide longevity and maybe more buoyancy. Not because it might float better on its own...but maybe absorb less water than natural fur. Plus it seems rather convenient.

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated!

In my experience, I have found that for larger flies, say #10 on up, synthetics work fine. However, it tying a #10 on down, furs like beaver and muskrat seem to work much easier. If you choose to use synthetics, for smaller flies you will need a material that is ultra soft. The advantage to using synthetics is the sheen of the material. Most furs are when dubbed, do not have that sparkle.

There are many new products on the market today. Honestly, I should look at synthetics again. The advance in technology has changed many materials.

So far the only thing I have tied of a #10 that required any dubbing has been a zonker, and used synthetic. For the most part the only flies I have tied that used any dubbing was a #18 Adams. The biggest issue I had was as you stated, a bit difficult to work with. I figured that was mostly my learning the technique and not necessarily the materials I used. I will still try my hand at grinding my own dubbing in the future, though. I can see how easy it is to make custom dubbing, and have it the way I want it, not how someone else wants it or has done it. If I want it coarser...then don't blend as much. Finer...blend a bit more if need be.

As far as the synthetics go, I have two different types. Which by the way, after I unpacked my box and read the package, answered my questions about buoyancy...but we won't talk about that.

Anyrate, back on track. The dubbing I have is for dry flies and another for nymphs. The dry fly dubbing doesn't have a brand on it, just says "Super Fine Water Proof Dry Fly Dubbing" (yeah...remember the question about buoyancy....ehhh, yeah. ). I think I picked it up at Sportco...or maybe even Cabelas...can't remember. It has 12 compartments with colors ranging from black to Hendrickson pink, and from mahogany to Adams gray.

The nymph dubbing has a bit more sparkle and is much coarser than the dry dubbing. It's called Mottled Nymph Blend from Spirit River. I haven't used any of it yet, the only nymph I have tied so far has been a pheasant tail nymph.

Thanks for your input, it is much appreciated.

Consider your usage when trying to decide between synthetic or natural.

Synthetic doesn't absorb much water so it floats better. Most naturals absorb water and are hard to float. Rabbit dubbing isn't a good choice for dry flys, but works real good for subsurface flies. Beaver, otter and probably muskrat don't absorb much water because of the oils.

If you want to tie a big bulky subsurface fly for night fishing....rabbit is a good choice...or rabbit and other material blended together. "Subsurface" with a thick rabbit body probably means a fly that sinks...but still remains in the top 12 inches of the water.

The answer is to use the right tool for the right job, but you already know that.

Personally, I've been using some of the super fine, ultra soft, synthetics for over 25 years for dry flies. The oldest ones were a real pain, but some of the newer ones are a dream to use. Of course dubbing them takes a different hand then dubbing naturals, but with practice, they are just fine.

I have been using the stiff, course, synthetics for as long, and for "wet" flies / nymphs, they are great.

I agree with Marc that the naturals do not have the same sheen or sparkle as synthetics, but they are often easier to use. What I don't like is the fact that with natural materials, you need to judge the final color wet, not dry; blending is made more difficult because of this.

Unlike Marc, I find that I do just fine with most of the newer fine, soft, color fast synthetics on Small flies. In fact, I have tied them down to as small as a # 24 (tough hooks to even find). Still, beaver is so much easier to use, and I am usually tying midges at that size, so I don't use synthetics all that often for the ultra small files. I have some "Tiny Blue Winged Olives" tied up using a synthetic dating almost 30 years - and they are great, even down to a size 18.

Because you are new, find a local fly fishing specialty shop. Ask them if they have classes, or better yet, do some of their customers get together to tie flies once a week, or once a month? If so, set in on a few secessions, you would be so surprised at what you would learn.

PS, even we old timers can learn from those tier groups.